THE CAPE TIMES - 1933, 19 August
On NELSON MANDELA INTERNATIONAL DAY we celebrate the idea that each
individual has the ability and power to make an impact to transform the world.
Nelson Mandela spent 18 years of his imprisonment at ROBBEN ISLAND – an island
in TABLE BAY that had been desolated in 1930. In 1933 a correspondent of The Cape Times, painted a sad, but vivid picture of Robben
Island as it was on that day – almost 3 years after the island was evacuated. (Government
Officials and Lepers were removed from Robben Island in 1930 and all Leper
buildings, were burned and demolished in 1931.)
The first sight that met the eye when
landing from the jetty at Robben Island were grass grown streets. Everywhere
was an unkempt and uncared-for appearance which typified the state of this once
busy village.
The ENGLISH CHURCH had the appearance of
having just been left by the congregation. Several books which might form
valuable historical records were found in the vestry and the furniture of the
church was complete and in good order. The Chaplain’s surplice was still
hanging in its appointed place and several books were scattered over chairs and
footstools as though the church had been evacuated an hour ago. Memorial
brasses, marble table, sacred pictures, crucifixes and old records were uncared
for. The little LEPER CHURCH stood alone amid
streets which were razed to the ground. Inside the porch was a red dress
hanging alongside a few sacred pictures covered with cobwebs. Who owned this
dress, and what has become of her? The small stone building had seating
accommodation for 50 – 60 persons. Stained glass windows let light filter
through while two or three broken panes allowed creepers to enter and find
peace from the chilling blasts which blew across the island. Birds made their nests
on the ledges and befouled images, chairs and carpets. On a carved wood tablet
hung on the wall, dozens of names were inscribed. This little church must have
been an oasis for the poor haunted souls, these outcasts from civilization, who
had not much to live for beyond their religion. A statue of Christ looked down
on a house desecrated, while all around were moss-grown ruins inhabited by
birds and rabbits. Beyond the twitter of a bird the whole place was as silent
as the grave.
Further to the south was the fine old
ENGLISH CHURCH with a tablet stating that it was erected in 1841 and that
Captain Robert Wolfe was Commandant of the Island. Surplices were still hanging
in the vestry and several books and diaries were seen, one of which was dated
1869. The fine altar cross, pictures, hanging lamps, fine carpets and many
other valuable items were still there. What would become of the many fine
teak chairs and pews which were made from the wreckage which was washed up from
the mail steamer TANTALLON CASTLE that became a total loss on the North-West
corner of the Island?
In the ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH were
statues, pictures, lamps, brass candlesticks and brass vessels. The walls would
not crumble, as they were stoutly built from slate quarried on the island.
The well-paved streets of the village
were beginning to be overgrown with grass and weeds, and it was impossible to
go hundred yards in any direction without putting up one or more rabbits. They
were in excellent condition from the wealth of vegetation. In the dry months
they fed upon the lower branches of trees. The light-keepers could not grow
vegetables, as the rabbits destroyed everything. The dozens of houses that lined well
laid-out streets were silent and empty. Weeds had grown up and choked gardens.
Some windows were barricaded with iron gates, and doors creaked on rusted
hinges as the wind whirled through verandas and round corners. Glass windows
were broken.
The CLUB, once the pride of the island,
was stripped to its bare bones – broken door, wood and rubbish all over the
floors. Taking the village as a whole, all the buildings were in much better
condition than one would expect.
In August 1933 the population of the
island consisted of three Light-keepers and their families who lived in cozy and
healthy quarters below the LIGHTHOUSE. They had to attend to and clean the
light and its mechanism and had to be wireless experts with a working knowledge
of machinery. The Lighthouse Engineer had to take care of the surprising amount
of machinery housed in the Fog Signal Station on the west side of the island.
Three machines, each weighing over four
and a half tons, about a dozen large air-tanks standing some 12 feet high, and
also pipes and other gadgets had to be kept in order and cleaned regularly. The
TWO HORNS – which had the appearance of ventilators – projecting through the
roof were each half a ton in weight. One mouth faced north-west and the other
south-west, so that the volume of sound could be directed into the fog area.
Among the jagged rocks in the vicinity were the remains of vessels that have
either been cast on shore or have been wrecked.
Few SEABIRDS were seen. Along the six
miles of road close to the water’s edge no more than 50 GULLS and DUIKERS were
counted. PENGUINS were scarce probably because small fish were no longer close
to Table Bay. Land bird were plentiful in many parts of the island.
The whole island was clothed in greenery
and at the extreme southern end were acres of arum lilies – a happy playground
for the rabbit population.
During the summer time the island was as
dry as a bone, as there was a thin layer of soil on a bed of limestone which
absorbed all water. Fruit trees did not grow well, as they withered and died as
soon as their root got down to the rock.
WHAT COULD BE DONE WITH THE ISLAND? The
main problem was that transport to the mainland was a costly matter. For that
reason the Government took away its officials and placed the lepers in bigger
quarters upcountry. If a private concern or individual was to run it as a large
CHICKEN FARM it should prove profitable, for a large number of chickens could
find food through many months of the year. Retired men might live there in comfort
with perhaps a monthly visit to town, but as a market garden the place would be
hopeless. It certainly seems a great pity that the dozens of stores and
splendidly built dwelling-houses could not be utilized for some purpose, for
hundreds of thousands of pounds must have been spent on it since its
occupation.
I wonder what happened to the pews,
chairs, sacred pictures, carpets, brass vessels, memorial brasses and marble
tablets, and if the diaries and other books found a place in a record office on
the mainland.
You are welcome to read more about the
History of Robben Island on https://www.sahistory.org.za/topic/robben-island-timeline-1400-1999
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